My bad....it's been awhile...here's some updates

Sorry I haven't written in so long! I have tons of anecdotes recorded in my head and will try to remember them. Here are some fun experiences or observations from the past weeks:

A few weeks ago I went to church with one of my colleagues from work. I never am awake before noon on a Sunday, so this was already going to be an interesting day! I had to meet Annick and her kids at 9am at our office, so she could show me how to get there. On the way, I noticed EVERYONE was in the streets! I was impressed, they were all exercising in their white shirts and running pants, and baseball caps. I still am getting used to seeing this all the time, I thought it was just a Friday afternoon thing, but since I never woke up early, now I know it's a Sunday thing too!

We get to the church, haha, I realize I'm actually not sure what denomination it is! I think they are born again Protestant types (forgive me I don't know denominations very well), I don't remember seeing anything right now to indicate. So it's a big parking lot, and by that I mean a large dirt area with no markings and cars parked surprisingly neat, with a large wooden structure. The church is not what I expected, I though we were going somewhere with four cement walls, but this was more like a large wooden open cabin, let's say it's something you'd expect to see in a park for picnics.

We find a spot, there are at least 200 people there, and it is jubiliant! There is lots of singing and music playing. A whole group of people are at the microphone, singing, swaying, and the band is rocking out local music, everyone is singing. This ends up being my favorite part, and I actually consider only coming back for this! It's just so energetic.

I quickly survey around and I'm one of 3-4 mzungus, or white people. Annick talks with some lady, who goes and finds me a headset, where I can listen to SIMULTANEOUS translation of everything. I'm like what? Is this the UN? Am I at the EU? You're telling me there's someone interpreting from Kirundi into English and French?? There may have even been more options. I choose English. I'm shocked! I can hear the man, and I find him too in a glass booth not far from the music, he is there translating the song for me. Wow, this church doesn't even have four walls! Very cool. I wonder if it's the Canadians that paid for this.

After all the singing, then the main pastor comes up and starts talking about lots of things (sorry can't remember!), he was dressed in a nice suit, I thought a little too nice. But he was engaging and dynamic. I do recall he went on, and I was wondering when we were going to open the Bible or he would quote from it, but he didn't. I think he was just talking about general lessons. After this pastor, there is an old white man, that I  had noticed before following the sermon, but without a translator (I thought curious, does he understand Kirundi?) I think he did. He later came up and spoke, he's Canadian, a missionary I believe. And he talked about how he was just in Canada at his church there, and told them about his Burundi congregation (oh by the way, the first pastor was simultaneously interpreting what he was saying after each sentence--very linguistic church!). He said the Canadian congregation loves the Burundians, is praying for them, because we are all brothers, and love each other. He urged the Burundians to pray for the Canadians, to wish them well, etc. I thought that was nice.

After him comes these two brothers who both go into a sermon, they were very funny (others laughed, I didn't get it:oP ) and dynamic. Finally we refer to the Bible! I notice that people around me are taking notes profusely as if they were in class. I wonder about this. I have also wondered what these notebooks are that my guards are always reading, and I have a feeling its friends or families that write these sermons to those who can't go to church. I haven't verified this, but it's my guess.

The sermons went on kinda looooong. Recall that I am usually sleeping in too. We got there at 915am or so, everyone was already there, and at 11am it was still going on! The translation was also getting staticky unless I held it up with my arm, which got tiring. I think Annick noticed that I was quite literally falling asleep and so at 1140 or so we left! Haha, hence why I said, I would only go back for the fun music part!

We went to Annick's house to have lunch. She lives on the same grounds as  an orhpanage which she helped to start up with a German lady. She used to work there full time, but later came to work for our project as administrative assistant. The orphanage seems well endowed although I didn't walk over to the house. They all go to the American School, so it's quite odd because all the kids speak English, which was really confusing me. Even Annick's kids speak better English than French.

We go inside to have a drink before eating, I meet her husband and we got talking history and politics. Most amusing, is that he thinks Burundi should invade the Congo! Haha! He said that part of it was part of our land, and he doesn't see why we should follow the borders drawn by the Europeans (he kinda has a point), but I was like, those boundaries are internationally accepted now, and Congo has its sovereignty. Well to him, they have too much, it's a huge country and they're not even using it! Which is true. Congo is Africa's gem, RICH in everything, and stuck with basically little governance and rebels. I can understand how he can dream of having this land for Burundi, which is one of the most densely populated countries in the world, and where land reform is a major problem (our project last year however helped draft a revised land code to improve the laws and it is currently making its way through govt for approval!). Also, from Bujumbura, and other parts of Burundi, but especially here in the capital, all you see is the Congo! 

I live in the hilly part of Buja, where the mountain chain starts, but Buja is on flat terrain, as is everything in front of these mountains and the lake, the airport is in the middle of a nowhere flatland. So unless you're at the airport, or at the lake looking away from it, you don't see the beautiful mountains of Burundi. Staring at us always, looming majestically across the water, and also a small land border, are the Congolese mountains. The sun sets behind them everyday, and it's an inspiring view. My eyes turn towards these mountains and the Lake Tanganyika, whenever I catch a glimpse in the city, and I have the great fortune to look at it every morning when I step out my door. I often stop for a moment and admire. Then go about my day.

But this is all to just say, that the Congo is quite intriguing, and like treasure of natural beauty and resources, and most of all to Burundians SPACE, dangling in front of our eyes constantly. I can see why he wants it! Albeit a bit radical.

One afternoon I was at the really nice hotel Club du Lac, which has a great beach, and also has an Olympic pool and pleasant sunny dining. All beach property is open to the public, so although it's a "club" I can just walk through it and head to the sand.  I was at the beach which is along the flat coast I mentioned, and here you're in between the Congolese and Burundian mountains, with a great, awesome, view of both. There, I noticed a real illustration of the land use problem in Burundi and the vast virginity of the Congo.

If you look at the Congo from this beach, its hills, valleys, mountains, everywhere, it is unending, green! Lush green, nothing stops it, no roads or large buildings, or a stadium, nothing, it is whole. Aside from the small town Uvira at the water, you see only blackness at night when staring at the Congo. Then you turn to the mountains of Burundi, and that dark green, that is lush, is hard to find. It's in spots. What you see mostly is brown or red of the earth, of cultivation, or roads. The houses and city reach up to a certain point, at which you see more vegetation, but the difference is staggering from the Congo! 

Deep thoughts while tanning :oP

Sorry for the length! I will write more soon.

Current party in power limiting freedoms in Burundi

Now that we're leading up to new elections in 2010 (and our project is going to work in establishing transparency measures) the current government in power is getting nervous and starting to limit freedoms.

See the page on Human Rights Watch of the jailing of parties that are trying to bring about "change".

What's behind all the running?

So I don't think I've told you yet about how Burundians exercise a lot. I've always noticed here how at certain times of day there's always people in sporty outfits running near the roads. One day I asked, why do I always see people exercising? And I got an interesting explanation that highlights the culture here is like an onion, you may observe something and think, oh people are just active, but there is deeper meaning behind it that you would never have guessed.

You may think, people joggins isn't a strange thing to see, but it's not something you normally see in Africa or in many places, Brazil, Europe, like you see in the US. So it did catch my eye.

Well part of the reason is that during the war and its continued violence, people were encouraged to be physically fit, so that at any moment they were ready to flee or fight. Additionally, many were part of the army and so they certainly are keeping up their practice of running regularly. Now this doesn't mean that everyone here is fit, but a lot of people at least take a walk in the evening. Interesting reason for a healthy benefit no?

So yesterday, when I was talking to our female civil society expert (and former minister) asking her to contact parliamentarians for their availability for our upcoming training, she told me, well they're having their afternoon fitness, I'll to contact them on Monday. So I learned a new way that people are encouraged to be physical. The government, its ministries, parliament, etc. all engage in sport activity together--as a requirement--on Friday afternoons. The work day here starts earlier, around 8-830, and so that allows for Friday afternoons off. So the motive behind the government playing games together is that after the war ended, it was a genocidal and ethnic war, there was obviously tension, mistrust, and resentment among the population. Now the government was going to be mixing the two major ethnicities, Hutu and Tutsi together and needed to build relationships.

So they required that each ministry, etc. perform required sport activity, football, running, walking, etc. so that they would work together in a fun way, have conversations during water breaks, etc. and build relationships and trust again.

I found this fascinating!!

There was a fire in our office building this evening, in the floor right above us. We had to evacuate the building. I asked if the firefighters were called in the parking lot, "apparently" they were, but I hung outside the building for at least 30min and never saw anyone! Thierry said, "Karen this is Africa, no firefighters are going to show up! If this were a real big fire, the whole building would collapse before we saw any "firefighters". Reassuring:o) 

(Did I turn the stove off at home?, has a whole new importance)

Instead, the security guards started tearing down the door of the room that was smoking up. It was an electrical fire of several cables that heated up together. I doubt the security guards were trained in any fire tactics! Thoughts of the movie Backdraft came to mind.

The rescue really arrived when the owners of the building drove in speedily with purpose, which is when I saw the wife of the owner jump out of the car (in pretty Malian garb, headdress and all) and haul out the heavy extinguisher from the truck, while talking on the phone at the same time. This was the rescue! But hey it worked, the fire got put out right? ;o)

Thierry's Wedding

Last Friday, Dec. 12th, I went to my colleague's civil union wedding. It was hosted at Jean's house, our project's chief of party (or leader). He has a charming house with a huge garden and view of the city and Lake Tanganyika.

Marriges here in Burundi take several steps! They have the traditional wedding called the "dote" which Thierry had last year. Nowadays, the dote is like an engagement party, but just as big as a wedding, whereas before this was considered the actual marriage. The dote is also when the dowry is negotiated between families. Usually a year after the dote, the religious and civil wedding is celebrated which officially closes the deal and another big party is held! The civil union was supposed to be held at Jean's house, but at the last minute the city hall informed Thierry that it had to be done at the city hall itself. So the party turned into just a reception, where the Burundian drummers played, people ate and drank, and some loooong speeches in Kirundi were delivered. Our driver told me it was usual blah blah, and was too lazy to translate for me! Generally a calm affair compared to the dancing there is in the US.

Aline, Thierry's wife, is of the royal family of Burundi, so she has a big family and they both had a lot of people to invite. So they split up their festivities in three parts so as everyone could come, not all the same people go to all of them, and it would be insulting to not have everyone attend.

Another example of this social rule is that Thierry and Aline had to hand deliver every invitation. If they did not deliver it in person, then people would get offended and maybe not even come. There are lots of customs like this here I've noticed that people are particular about.

The party had an interesting end when I was taking a picture and my purse was swiped from the chair I had left it on. I quickly noticed and saw someone leaving the garden hurriedly. Instinctly I popped off my heels and ran after him! I caught up with him at the exit of the garden into the driveway where he heard me and threw my purse into a gutter. I grabbed him and said, you took my purse! I checked his pockets, where he pulled out a Chanel perfume he probably had taken from someone else, and then saw my purse on the ground. I grabbed it and his arm and said, we're going back inside. Suprisingly he was quite submissive and came with me. I think it was shock that this white woman went after him! While we walked back, I told him that it's very bad to steal, it's mean, and that God sees him doing this (Burundians are a religious people mostly, so I felt this would have a good guilt effect and hopefully teach him a lesson).

When I got to our big, stocky driver Bouba, I told him what the man did, and Bouba, being the protective person he is, grabbed this and took him to a shady part under the trees. The man was questioned there and later we talked to a police commissioner, who seemed pretty happy the thief was caught (as they usually aren't) and felt it was an opportunity to do justice right.

So quite an interesting evening at the least!

First post!

Yay! First post on my first blog! Real content to come soon....