Thierry's Wedding

Last Friday, Dec. 12th, I went to my colleague's civil union wedding. It was hosted at Jean's house, our project's chief of party (or leader). He has a charming house with a huge garden and view of the city and Lake Tanganyika.

Marriges here in Burundi take several steps! They have the traditional wedding called the "dote" which Thierry had last year. Nowadays, the dote is like an engagement party, but just as big as a wedding, whereas before this was considered the actual marriage. The dote is also when the dowry is negotiated between families. Usually a year after the dote, the religious and civil wedding is celebrated which officially closes the deal and another big party is held! The civil union was supposed to be held at Jean's house, but at the last minute the city hall informed Thierry that it had to be done at the city hall itself. So the party turned into just a reception, where the Burundian drummers played, people ate and drank, and some loooong speeches in Kirundi were delivered. Our driver told me it was usual blah blah, and was too lazy to translate for me! Generally a calm affair compared to the dancing there is in the US.

Aline, Thierry's wife, is of the royal family of Burundi, so she has a big family and they both had a lot of people to invite. So they split up their festivities in three parts so as everyone could come, not all the same people go to all of them, and it would be insulting to not have everyone attend.

Another example of this social rule is that Thierry and Aline had to hand deliver every invitation. If they did not deliver it in person, then people would get offended and maybe not even come. There are lots of customs like this here I've noticed that people are particular about.

The party had an interesting end when I was taking a picture and my purse was swiped from the chair I had left it on. I quickly noticed and saw someone leaving the garden hurriedly. Instinctly I popped off my heels and ran after him! I caught up with him at the exit of the garden into the driveway where he heard me and threw my purse into a gutter. I grabbed him and said, you took my purse! I checked his pockets, where he pulled out a Chanel perfume he probably had taken from someone else, and then saw my purse on the ground. I grabbed it and his arm and said, we're going back inside. Suprisingly he was quite submissive and came with me. I think it was shock that this white woman went after him! While we walked back, I told him that it's very bad to steal, it's mean, and that God sees him doing this (Burundians are a religious people mostly, so I felt this would have a good guilt effect and hopefully teach him a lesson).

When I got to our big, stocky driver Bouba, I told him what the man did, and Bouba, being the protective person he is, grabbed this and took him to a shady part under the trees. The man was questioned there and later we talked to a police commissioner, who seemed pretty happy the thief was caught (as they usually aren't) and felt it was an opportunity to do justice right.

So quite an interesting evening at the least!